The global fashion and footwear industries are at an inflection point. Demand for fast fashion continues to rise, yet consumers and regulators are calling for lower environmental impacts. With fossil‑fuel fibers such as polyester and nylon making up more than half of global fiber production and taking centuries to degrade, designers and product teams are increasingly turning to biomaterials—materials derived from plants, microbes, or other biological sources—to deliver performance without the pollution.

At PLNTmatter, we transform previously unusable plant cellulose into high‑performance fibers using organic chemistry and waste‑free processes. Our modular manufacturing model enables local production that restores soil health and supports farming communities. Throughout this series, we’ll share insights from our material science team to help designers understand and adopt regenerative materials. This post introduces biomaterials and explores some of the most promising plant‑based options available today.

What are biomaterials?

Biomaterials are materials whose primary constituents originate from biological organisms rather than petroleum. They include fibers spun from natural polymers (e.g., cellulose, proteins) and bio‑engineered alternatives derived from agricultural waste or fermentation. Recent years have seen a proliferation of novel materials such as synthetic leather made from the root-like mycelium of mushrooms, nylon processed from castor oil, and fabrics spun from lab-grown spider silk. These innovations aim to provide brands with environmentally friendly alternatives to conventional fibers and have been embraced by high‑profile designers and retailers.

Some of the best‑developed biomaterials on the market are bio‑polyesters and bio‑nylons, which use feedstocks like corn starch or castor oil rather than fossil fuels. During cultivation, these crops act as carbon sinks; lifecycle assessments suggest that bio-based polymer fibers can reduce carbon emissions by as much as 60% compared with their petroleum-based counterparts. Biomaterials can therefore contribute to decarbonization while meeting the performance requirements of activewear and footwear.

Clarifying ‘bio’ terminology

The phrase “bio” is often used loosely, but bio does not always mean biodegradable or even renewable. One of the key findings from the Understanding “Bio” Material Innovations report is that there are multiple “bio” categories with different feedstocks and production methods. At the broadest level, any material with a biological association can be called a biomaterial. Under that umbrella, biobased materials are wholly or partly derived from biomass (plants, trees, or animals) – from natural fibers like cotton and wool to man‑made cellulosics and blends. Biosynthetics are polymers that contain bio‑derived compounds but may still include petrochemical inputs; some biosynthetic materials are biobased but not biofabricated. Biofabricated materials employ living microorganisms — such as bacteria, yeast, or mycelium — to produce either raw building blocks (e.g., silk proteins) or complete material structures. A subset of this approach, bioassembled materials, involves guiding living organisms to grow directly into the final form, such as mycelium leather sheets.

These categories overlap, and many materials sit at the intersection of two or more. It is critical to understand that the name attached to a material doesn’t change how it has been made, its impacts, or its end‑of‑life. Biobased polymers can still be blended with fossil‑derived materials; some biobased fabrics are not compostable, while specific petrochemical polymers are. Designers and innovators should therefore look beyond marketing labels and ask deeper questions about feedstock, processing chemistry, and disposal. Without this diligence, the term “bio” can become a source of greenwashing.

To avoid confusion, insist on transparent terminology when evaluating new materials. Ask suppliers whether the material is biobased, biosynthetic, biofabricated, or bioassembled; what percentage of biological content it contains; what processing chemicals are used; and whether additives or blends affect end‑of‑life options. Standardised language will help the industry compare innovations on a like‑for‑like basis and avoid misleading claims.

Why plant‑based materials matter

Reducing environmental impacts

Conventional synthetic fibers are derived from crude oil and natural gas. They are energy‑intensive to produce, account for a majority of global fiber output, and take up to 200 years to break down, contributing to microplastic pollution throughout their life cycle. In contrast, plant‑based fibers come from renewable resources, and many can be manufactured in closed‑loop systems that recycle solvents and minimize waste. For example, bamboo lyocell uses a solvent‑spinning process that recycles over 99 % of the non‑toxic solvent and consumes significantly less water and energy than conventional materials, like cotton.

Other plant fibers, such as hemp, are naturally resource-efficient: cotton farming can require around 8,000–20,000 liters of water per kilogram of fabric, depending on local conditions, irrigation methods, and efficiencies; whereas hemp needs only about  2,000 liters—less than a third of cotton’s footprint. Hemp also resists pests without pesticides and improves soil health, making it attractive for regenerative agriculture. These qualities help explain why biomaterials are gaining attention from both designers and sustainability teams.

Meeting performance expectations

Historically, plant‑based fabrics were viewed as niche, rough, or less durable. Advances in fiber science have changed that. Modern biomaterials can match or surpass the performance of synthetic fibers in moisture management, strength, and durability. For example, high‑tenacity bio‑nylons derived from castor oil have been used in technical outdoor gear and deliver comparable strength to petroleum‑based nylon while having a lower carbon footprint. Algae-based foams, another emerging category, can reduce the environmental impact of cushioning components by around 40% compared with conventional foams. These foams are already being used in shoes and accessories to provide lightweight, resilient cushioning.

Key plant‑based high‑performance materials

Bamboo Lyocell (CleanBamboo®)

Bamboo grows quickly without pesticides or fertilizers, and when processed into lyocell fiber, it becomes exceptionally soft and breathable. Bamboo lyocell is produced in a closed‑loop process that recycles non‑toxic solvents and requires far less water and energy than cotton. Leading home brands like ettitude use 100% certified organic bamboo to manufacture sheets and towels, demonstrating its commercial viability.

At PLNTmatter, we call our proprietary bamboo lyocell fiber CleanBamboo®. Because we use bamboo rather than trees as our feedstock, CleanBamboo has a significantly smaller land footprint and avoids deforestation.

Our patented process recycles 98% of the water used and reduces CO₂ emissions by 38% compared with cotton. When compared with Tencel® tree-based lyocell, CleanBamboo saves 58% of water and reduces CO₂ emissions by 22%.

CleanBamboo is also engineered for performance: tests show 24% better moisture wicking, 17% greater breathability, and superior durability and pill resistance compared with cotton, viscose, and conventional lyocell. The fiber can be spun into a variety of textures—from silky to structured—making it suitable for activewear, intimates, and home textiles. PLNTmatter’s material platform offers alternatives such as NOTsilk™, NOTwool™, NOTcashmere™, and NOTelastic™, enabling designers to replace animal fibers and synthetics across diverse applications with high-performance plant-based alternatives.

Hemp

Hemp is one of the oldest cultivated fibers and is regaining popularity due to its durability and low environmental impact. A single hectare of hemp can produce more fiber than cotton and requires significantly less water—about 2,000 liters per kilogram. It also resists pests naturally, reducing the need for chemicals. Hemp fibers are strong, breathable, and have natural antimicrobial properties, making them suitable for activewear, outdoor gear, and even footwear uppers.

Bio‑polyesters and bio‑nylons

Bio-polyesters (e.g., PLA) and bio‑nylons derived from corn starch or castor oil provide drop‑in replacements for conventional PET and nylon. During cultivation, the crops absorb carbon dioxide, reducing life‑cycle carbon emissions by up to 60%. These materials can be engineered to achieve high tenacity, abrasion resistance, and stretch, making them ideal for high‑performance knitwear, outerwear, and technical footwear.

Next-gen biomaterials

The biomaterials landscape is rapidly evolving, with start‑ups and research labs exploring new sources of fiber:

• Mycelium leather – Fungal mycelium is cultivated into dense mats that can be tanned and finished to resemble animal leather. Brands have produced fashion accessories from mushroom leather, offering a vegan alternative. Hermès had launched the Victoria travel bag using "Sylvania," a mycelium leather produced by MycoWorks.

• Fruit-derived fibers – Pineapple leaves, citrus peels, and banana stems can be transformed into non-woven textiles, turning agricultural waste into high-value materials. Hugo Boss has produced limited-edition Piñatex® sneakers made from pineapple leaves.

• Algae‑based foams – Foams made from algae biomass replace a portion of petroleum‑derived polyurethane. These foams can lower the environmental impact of each foam component by around 40% and are already used in insoles and other cushioning applications. Adidas has been testing and incorporating Bloom algae foam in the footwear development pipeline, including the midsoles and insoles of select running and casual shoes.

• Spider‑silk proteins – Recombinant proteins produced by genetically engineered microbes can be spun into fibers that mimic the remarkable strength and elasticity of natural spider silk. The North Face has even prototyped a ski jacket using synthetic spider silk.

Design considerations and challenges

While biomaterials offer clear benefits, adopting them responsibly requires careful evaluation:

• Supply‑chain transparency – Designers should verify where and how feedstocks are grown. Certifications (e.g., FSC, GOTS) and digital traceability tools can help ensure raw materials are sourced responsibly and that value-chain impacts are addressed, as mandated by new regulations like the EU’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) commission.europa.eu.

• Processing and chemistry – Some biomaterials rely on solvents or additives that may carry environmental risks. Closed-loop processes, solvent recycling, and the use of non-toxic chemistries (e.g., in bamboo lyocell production) are critical to achieving true sustainability.

• End‑of‑life options – Not all biomaterials are compostable; some require industrial composting or are blended with synthetic fibers that hinder recyclability. Designers should consider take‑back schemes, chemical recycling technologies, or modular product design to extend material lifespans.

• Performance testing – Before replacing synthetics, test biomaterials for durability, abrasion resistance, moisture management, and stretch. Some biomaterials may perform differently under stress or repeated washing, and blending them with recycled synthetics can be a pragmatic compromise.

Beyond technical considerations, the Bio Material Innovations report emphasises that commercialising new biomaterials is a long game. Start‑ups working on biofabricated or biosynthetic fibers can take 10 – 15 years to reach industrial scale, and demand currently outstrips supply. Success, therefore, depends on strong partnerships between brands and innovators. Brands should clearly articulate their sustainability goals, be realistic about development timelines, and agree on shared milestones; innovators must be transparent about challenges and leverage brand partners’ expertise to move faster. Unrealistic expectations or one‑off pilots that do not lead to actual commercialization and adoption can stall progress and undermine confidence in the field.

When evaluating new biomaterials, ask the following questions:

• By‑products and waste management – What by‑products are generated during fermentation, extraction, or finishing? Does the manufacturer have standards for handling and recycling waste streams?

• Material composition – What percentage of the finished material is genuinely biobased? Are any fossil‑derived components present, and if so, why?

• Additives and blending – Does the material require blending with synthetics or chemical additives to meet performance requirements? How do those additives affect recyclability or compostability?

• End of use – What happens to the material at the end of its life? Can it be composted, chemically recycled, or disassembled? How does it interact with existing waste infrastructure?

By asking these questions early, designers can identify potential impact blindspots and ensure that biomaterial adoption leads to genuine sustainability gains rather than unintended consequences.

Bringing biomaterials into your designs

To integrate biomaterials into your product line:

1. Start with a flagship fiber – Choose one or two biomaterials that align with your brand values and product requirements. Bamboo lyocell or hemp blends are versatile starting points for basics, home goods and loungewear.

2. Collaborate with innovators – Partner with material start‑ups and platforms like Fashion for Good, which unites the fashion ecosystem to scale textile innovation and provides actionable insights for brands.

3. Prototype and iterate – Develop sample runs to evaluate feel, drape, and performance. Gather feedback from wear‑testers and iterate on fabric weights and finishes.

4. Communicate transparently – Educate consumers on the benefits and limitations of biomaterials. Share life‑cycle data, highlight closed‑loop processes, and be honest about ongoing challenges around recycling and biodegradability.

Looking ahead

Biomaterials are not a silver bullet—some still require chemical processing, and their sustainability depends on cultivation and end‑of‑life practices. Many biofabricated and biosynthetic innovations remain in early stages of development and will need patient investment and collaboration to reach commercial scale. Nevertheless, biomaterials offer a pathway to reduce dependence on fossil‑fuel fibers and to design products with lower carbon footprints. As innovations like bio‑polyesters, mycelium leather, and recombinant proteins continue to evolve and scale, designers have an opportunity to rethink material choices and lead the transition to regenerative, circular fashion.